On the one hand: you can’t blame the dairy industry for kicking up a stink, any more than you would a sewage workers’ union or the National Farts Association. On the other – that poor little vegan cheese shop!

I refer to La Fauxmagerie, which opened in Brixton on February 8 and calls itself the UK’s first 100 per cent plant-based cheesemonger. Some of that description might have to change: Dairy UK, which represents farmers and dairy companies, has already written to Rachel and Charlotte Stevens, the sisters who run La Fauxmagerie, to remind them of legislation that prevents vegan products from using dairy terminology.

The law doesn’t prevent consumers from doing it, obviously – so I can freely…

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