has steered Seiobo in a very different direction. My snack-menu dinner that night might have been served at a restaurant in Trinidad or Guyana: deep-fried paddles of Australian crab, with slices of lime and a pile of curried rice. The crab was lumpy and sweet, pure in flavor below its crust, but it was the rice that shocked and demanded conversation. It was built on a base of long-cooked curry paste: a beautiful dark golden hue, fragrant with cumin, cardamom, coriander, a big hit of ginger and garlic, with minced habanero for heat and a salty punch of soy and oyster sauces hovering over it all. It seemed to tell the story of Caribbean food in just a couple of bites.

Paul Carmichael’s Curried Rice

Order Reprints | Today’s Paper | Subscribe